Must See

Bukhara

Bukhara (along with Samarkand) is one of the two major centres of Uzbekistan's Tajik minority, and is believed to be one of the holiest Islamic cities in Central Asia. Bukhara has seen many battles, most notoriously being attacked by the Mongols in 1220, by Alexander the Great in 329 BC and most recently coming under the control of Russia.

During the 14th century, Baha-ud-Din Naqshband Bukhari lived in the city - a central figure in the development of the mystical Sufi approach to philosophy, religion and Islam. There are more than 100 religious colleges and 350 mosques in Burkhara, including the Kalyan Mosque, which is part of an architectural complex located at the foot of the great minaret Kalyan. This is not only the tallest minaret in Central Asia, but also one of the oldest ones, dating from 1127. Its base is approximately 10 metres in diameter, narrowing to 6 metres at its 47-metre high top. The tower was used not only to call the faithful to prayer, but was also the place where convicted criminals were thrown to their deaths.

In the northeast of the city is the ancient Ark (fortress), which was the palace complex of the Emirs. Unfortunately, the Ark has been destroyed and rebuilt several times (the last damage was carried by the Red Army in 1920) and now only a part of the former glory is left. The surviving gatehouse however gives an impression of what the original fortress must have been like. Near the gatehouse is the Zindan (the jail of the Emirs), which has a display of some of the torture methods employed by the Emirs against their enemies. Some cells are lit and figures placed inside to show how miserable the prisoners' lives would have been.

Other attractions in Bukhara include the Abdul Aziz Khan Madrasah and Ulug Beg Madrasah (Islamic schools), the Ishmael Samani Mausoleum (built in the 9th century as the resting-place of Ismail Samani - the founder of the Samanid dynasty), the Chashma Ayub Mausoleum (or Job's spring) and the many covered bazaars, such as Taq-I-Zaragan (jewellers' bazaar), Tim Abdullah Khan (silk and carpet workshop) and Taq-I-Telpak Furushan (capmakers' bazaar).

Chatkalsky Reserve

In this narrow unspoilt gorge in the western Tian-Shan mountain range, visitors may spot the Berkut eagle, rare Tian-Shan grey bears and snow tigers.

Khiva

Situated northeast of Bukhara is the ancient city of Khiva, near the modern and uninteresting city of Urgench. The city is split into two parts. The outer town (Dichan Kala) was formerly protected by a wall with 11 gates. The inner town (Itchan Kala) is encircled by brick walls, whose foundations are believed to have been laid in the 10th century. The present-day 10-metre high walls date back to the late 17th century. The town is hardly inhabited now, and visitors wandering through its streets (especially away from the main attractions) will be able to imagine what it was like in its prime when it was a market for captured Russian and Persian slaves.

Climb the stairs to the top of the Ko'xna Ark (fortress) in the early evening to see a spectacular panoramic view of the city, with the medressahs, minarets, towers and mosques painted gold by the setting sun.

Nukus

Nukus, in the west of the country, is home to the Karakalpakstan Art Museum and State Museum, which is noted for its collection of modern Russian and Uzbek art from 1918-1935. The museum also has a collection of artefacts recovered from archaeological investigations, traditional jewellery, costumes and musical instruments, along with a display of the area's now vanished or endangered flora and fauna.

Samarkand

A city steeped in history, culture and amazing beauty, Samarkand was known as the 'Centre of the Universe' due to its pivotal position on the ancient Silk Road. Samarkand is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, and was transformed by Timur in the 14th century into one of the world's greatest capitals.

Much of its past glory survives or has been restored. The centre of the historical town is Registan, where three huge madrassas (Islamic seminaries) surround a huge square. The madrassas (Ulugh Beg Madrassa in the west, Sherdar Madrassa in the east and Tilla-Kari Madrassa in the middle) were built in the 15th to 17th century, and their intricate mosaics give some idea of the grandeur that marked Samarkand in its heyday.

Near Registan Square is the Bibi Khanym Mosque, named for the wife of the 14th-century warlord, Timur. The mosque partially collapsed in 1897 after an earthquake, and although it has been restored by the Government of Uzbekistan, little original work remains. Timur and the rest of his family is buried in the Gur-e Amir (Tomb of the King) Mausoleum, although the actual bodies are situated in the basement, which is not open to the public. The stone that commemorates Timur is reputed to be the largest chunk of Nephrite (jade) in the world.

One of the most beautiful of Samarkand's sights is the Shah-i-Zinda (Tomb of the Living King). This complex was formed over nine (from 11th till 19th) centuries and now includes more than twenty buildings. Legend says that Kusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad who brought Islam to this area, is buried there. His shrine is one of the oldest buildings in Samarkand.

Northeast of the main bazaar (behind the Bibi Khanym Mosque) is the main archaeological site of ancient Samarkand (Afrasiab), which is mostly exposed to the elements. The Afrasiab Museum contains a frieze dating from the sixth century, which shows a train of gifts for the Sogdian ruler of the day. Also at the site is the purported tomb of Daniel, the Old Testament prophet, which is an immense 18-metres long. The sarcophagus is this long as according to legend, Daniel's body grows by half an inch per year.

Other highlights of the city include the Observatory of Ulug Beg (Timur's grandson), which was the most advanced astronomical observatory of its day. In the 1420s, Ulugh Beg built an immense, 3-story tall sextant, one of the largest ever constructed, in order to measure the positions of the stars with unprecedented accuracy, the ruins of which were unearthed in 1908.

Tashkent

Tashkent is the country's densely populated capital city, located in the northeast. Due to an earthquake in 1966, it has been rebuilt in large parts, and little now remains of its 2,000-year history. The maze of narrow winding mud-brick alleys that lie in the old town to the west of the centre contrast with the modern broad, tree-lined streets, imposing squares and tower blocks.

Some ancient site do still remain, such as the Kukeldash Madrassa, which dates back to the reign of Abdullah Khan (1557-1598) and the Yunus Khan Mausoleum, a group of three 15th century mausoleums, restored in the 19th century and housing the grave of Yunus Khan, the grandfather of the Mughal Empire founder Babur. The Telyashayakh Mosque (Khast Imam Mosque) contains the Uthman Qur'an, considered to be the oldest extant Qur'an in the world. Dating from 655 and stained with the blood of murdered caliph Uthman, it was brought by Timur to Samarkand, seized by the Russians as a war trophy and taken to Saint Petersburg. It was returned to Uzbekistan in 1989.

It's worth bearing in mind that many of the Islamic sites in Tashkent are only open to Muslims, and visitors should always ask permission before entering a mosque or other religious building.

Tashkent is also home to a number of museums, such as the Fine Arts Museum of Uzbekistan, which contains a major collection of art from the pre-Russian period, including Buddhist statues and Zoroastrian art, Sogdian murals, and a more modern collection of 19th and 20th century Uzbek applied art, such as suzani embroidered hangings. Of particular interest is the collection of paintings "borrowed" from the Hermitage by Grand Duke Romanov to decorate his palace in exile in Tashkent, which were never returned. The Museum of Decorative and Applied Arts has displays of 19th and 20th century embroidered wall hangings and reproduction antique jewellery, but its main attraction is the building itself, which was a traditional Uzbek house originally commissioned for a wealthy tsarist diplomat.

The Amir Timur Museum is an impressive building with a brilliant blue dome and ornate interior, which houses exhibits of Timur (better known as Tamerlane in the West) and of President Islom Karimov. The grounds outside contain a statue of Timur on horseback, surrounded by some of the most pleasant gardens and fountains in the city.

Also in the city is the Alisher Navoi Opera and Ballet Theatre, designed by Aleksey Shchusev (the same architect who designed Lenin's Tomb in Moscow) and built with Japanese prisoner of war labour in World War II.

Alternatively, visitors may just want to wander through the Chorsu Bazaar, located near the Kukeldash Madrassa. This huge open market is the centre of the old town of Tashkent, where just about everything imaginable is for sale.

Activities

Caving

Those looking for adventure may want to visit the many caves in Uzbekistan, including those in Baisuntau, which contain mummified bears; those in western Tian Shan, which feature underground rivers and lakes; the Kugitang cave, which features some beautiful gypsum formations; and the deepest caves in Asia at Kievskaya (990 m/3,247 ft) and Boi-Bulok (1,415 m/4,641 ft) - suitable for experienced cavers only.

Climbing

Vertical rock faces for climbing can be found on the Matchi Ridge (at Aksu, Asan-Usan and Sabakh) and in the Fan mountains (at Bodkhana, Chapdara, Maria-Mirali and Zamok). There's also ice climbing on the Turkestan, Matcha and Gissar ridges.

Cycling

Anyone looking for a challenge can cycle the Silk Road from Tashkent via Lake Aidarkul to Khiva. Easier rides may be had around Tashkent and in the Ferghana Valley, where lake and mountain scenery can be enjoyed.

Mountaineering

There are many opportunities for serious mountaineering in Uzbekistan, and the country contains some of the world's highest peaks, including Peak Khan-Tengri (6,995 m), Peak Korzhenevskaya (7,105 m) and Peak Pobeda (7,439 m). Equipment can be transported to base camps by helicopter.

Trekking

Whilst there are many opportunities for mountaineering, easier treks can be done in the foothills of the mountains in the south of the country. There is also superb hiking to be enjoyed along the spurs and gorges of the Chatkal Range to the ancient silver mine in the Chatkal Natiore Preserve.

For something a bit different however, why not try a camel trek? Camel farms are located to the north of Nurata and will supply you with a camel if you want to experience desert life in original Silk Road fashion.