Must See

Dar es Salaam

Once the capital city (now moved to Dodoma), the major port of Dar es Salaam is the natural starting point for trips to various parts of Tanzania. It began as a small fishing village in 1857 (the name means 'haven of peace' in Arabic) and now Dar es Salaam has 3 million people with a mix of African, Arabic and Indian cultures, with a tranquil air that belies industrial and commercial growth.

The architecture is an eclectic mix of Swahili, German, Asian and British influences. German colonialists organised the city by arranging a grid pattern of streets fanning out around the port. On the northern section of the harbour is Kivukoni Front, with a bustling fish market, where dhows sail in to offload the night's catch every morning at dawn. Other attractions include St Joseph's Cathedral, the German Hospital and the Lutheran Church (all located on the waterfront), along with the National Museum, which houses the 1.7 million years old skull of Nutcracker Man. Also worth seeing is the Village Museum, with exhibits of traditional housing and crafts, and Observation Hill, which contains the campus and facilities of the University of Dar es Salaam.

From Dar es Salaam, visitors can head for the fishing village of Msasani, just 8 km (5 miles) away, which is home to some interesting tombs dating back to the 17th century. Further south, is the World Heritage of Kilwa Klsiwani, where there are ruins of Portuguese and Arab architecture, including a 12th C large domed mosque, coral stone houses, the Great House (home to several sultans) and the 15th C Makutuni Palace (Palace of Great Walls). There is also the largest pre-European building in equatorial Africa, the Husuni Kubwa, which was built in the 14th C. This palace overlooks the Indian Ocean and features over 100 rooms with terraces around the sunken courtyards, an octagonal swimming pool and a mosque.

24 km ( 15 miles) north of Dar es Salaam is Kunduchi, a fishing village with nearby ruins of a late 15th C mosque, preserved pillar tombs and Arabic graves from the 18th or 19th C.

Bagamoyo

Bagamoyo (meaning 'bury my heart'), was the first capital of Tanzania, and is located 72 km (45 mile) north from Dar es Salaam. It was a one-time slave port and terminus for the trade caravans, and the last stop for Christian missionaries before they headed inland. European explorers such as Burton, Livingstone and Stanley began their journeys in Bagamoyo, and Livingstone's body rested in the tiny chapel of the convent here on its way back to London.

The town mosque and Arab tombs date from the 18th and 19th centuries, and the German cemetery, which is surrounded by a coral wall, has many graves of Germans killed during the uprising in 1889 to 1890. This tiny township is the nearest mainland point to Zanzibar and has some wonderful sandy beaches set in a beautiful bay.

Just 5 km (3 miles) to the south of Bagamoyo is the village of Kaole, near which are the ruins of a 2 mosques and 30 tombs dating back to the 13th C, although the older of the two mosques is thought to date from the 3rd or 4th C. The tombs at Kaole were built from coral stones with stone pillars.

Lake Victoria

Lake Victoria is the largest freshwater lake in Africa (a similar size to Ireland) and is bordered by Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda. It is the source of the White Nile.

On the shores of the lake lies Musoma, just near the Kenyan border, and close to Butaiama, the hometown of the first President of Tanzania. The city is home to the Mwalimu Julius K. Nyerere Museum, where exhibits document the early history of Tanzania, the rise of nationalism and the independence movement. The town itself is vibrant with a lively waterfront. On market day, women from the surrounding area bring their crops of green leafy vegetables, bunches of bright yellow bananas, mangoes and ripe avocados to sell on brown canvas spread over the ground.

There are a number of islands near Musoma, some of which have become national parks (Rubondo Island) or wildlife sanctuaries (Saanane Island).

Mafia Island

Mafia Island attracts snorkellers and divers from around the world to the see the underwater life that is protected by the Mafia Island Marine Park. The best weather on Mafia Island is May to October (March and April are months of heavy rain); however, the best months for diving are October to March.

Mount Kilimanjaro

Formed over 1 million years ago by volcanic movement along the Rift Valley, Mount Kilimanjaro is Africa's highest mountain at 5,895 metres (19,341 ft) high. The mountain can be tackled by experienced climbers at any time of the year, although the best period is from late June to October, during the dry season. An ascent takes three days, and the peak is cold, so it is essential that climbers bring the right equipment, such as warm clothing, boots, gloves and a hat. Guides and porters are essential even for the lower peaks.

Climbs may be organised through selected hotels, or supplies, staff and equipment (arctic sleeping bags and extra trousers) may be hired at the park gate. Although Kilimanjaro may be attempted by any strong mountain walker, visitors should be aware of the dangers of high altitude sickness which, in extreme cases, can be fatal.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area

Ngorongoro Conservation Area is located between Lake Manyara in the east, Lake Enaysi in the south and Lake Natron in the northeast (the breeding ground for east Africa's flamingos).

The park's centrepiece is the 3-million years old Ngorongoro Crater, a collapsed volcano forming a crater that is 610 m (2,000 ft) deep, 20 km (12.5 miles) in diameter, covering an area of 311 sq km (122 sq miles). The crater, which is the largest intact caldera in the world, has protected its inhabitants from outside influences, and has also prevented migration. As a result, it contains nearly all the African plains mammals (except for the impala, topi and giraffe), including lions, elephants, zebras, Thomson's gazelles, buffaloes and wildebeest, and is also home to the endangered black rhino. The rich birdlife includes flamingos, which are attracted by the soda content in Lake Magadi on the crater floor.

Olduvai Gorge is an archaeological site within Ngorongoro Conservation Area where fossils and remnants of early mankind dating back 2 million years have been found. Finds include basic tools, old campsites, hunting weapons, crude shelters and a possible butchery site with remains of dead animals, killed by humans. A small museum displays skeletons of extinct animals (including giant antelopes and three-toed horses); casts of the famous footprints of a man, woman and child found at nearby Laetoli; and pictures of what life was like for some of Olduvai's early inhabitants.

The Serengeti National Park

At just under 15,000 square kilometres, this amazing park is home to 35 species of plains-dwelling animal, including zebra, wildebeest, gazelle, cheetah and lion, and is the largest national park in Tanzania ('Serengeti' means an 'extended place' in the Maasai language). There are also 500 species of birds, including flamingos, sacred ibis, vultures, storks, crowned crane and ostrich. The best months for wildlife viewing is between December and June.

The park also pays host to one of the world's great natural spectacles, the annual Serengeti migration of millions of zebra and wildebeest followed by their predators in May or early June. The migration of these vast herds is one of the most impressive natural events and the primary draw for many tourists. Visitors can even watch it all from the silence of a hot air balloon high above.

Ujiji

Ujiji is one of Africa's oldest market towns and was once a slave trade town settled by the Arabs. It is now famous for being the location of the historic meeting between Henry Morton Stanley and Dr David Livingstone.

David Livingstone was sent by the London Missionary Society to Africa to convert the locals to Christianity. He became better known as an explorer and was the first white man to cross the continent and see Victoria Falls. In the 1860s, while exploring the Lake Tanganyika region, he disappeared, and in 1869 the New York Times financed a search for him. Their reporter, Henry Stanley, eventually found him on November 10th, 1871, frail and short of supplies. He greeted him with the immortal line, "Dr Livingstone, I presume?" Stanley was the first white man to speak to him in five years. A stone marks this historic meeting place, 10 kilometres south of the capital.

Zanzibar

The Zanzibar archipelago consists of the islands of Zanzibar (Unguja) and Pemba. The island of Zanzibar has been ruled by Shirazi Persians, the Portuguese, the Omani Arabs and British colonials, and as a result, Zanzibar's capital (Stone Town) is a labyrinth of narrow, winding streets lined with exotic shops, mosques, bazaars, colonial mansions and squares. Highlights of the town include the house where Dr Livingstone lived, the towering Beit-el-Ajaib (The House of Wonders), the Anglican Cathedral Church of Christ and the palace of the former sultan.

Organised tours are available to tour Zanzibar's spice and fruit plantations, allowing visitors to taste and buy spices, herbs and fruit. The island also has some of the best beaches in the world.

Pemba Island is located north of Zanzibar and has become very popular with scuba divers due to its lush coral gardens.

National Parks

Tanazani has a huge range of national Parks. In addition to Serengeti National Park and Ngorongoro Conservation Area (both described above) are parks located at Katavi, Mahale Mountains, Rubondo and Udzungura Mountain, and marine parks at Kilwa Reserve, Latham Island Reserve, Rufigi Delta and Tanga Coral Gardens.

Other national parks include:

Arusha National Park (Northern Tanzania)

This park lies within the Ngurdoto Crater, a volcano that has probably been extinct for a quarter of a million years. Although smaller than most in Tanzania, visitors are able to see buffalos, rhinos, zebra, elephants, giraffes and warthogs. Black and white Colobus monkeys are easily spotted in the forested area. On a clear day, the summits of Mount Meru and Mount Kilimanjaro can be seen from the rim of Ngurdoto Crater.

Gombe National Park (Central Tanzania)

Located near Kigoma on the shores of Lake Tanganyika, Gombe Stream National Park is home to about 200 chimpanzees, more easily seen here in their natural habitat than anywhere else in the world. Jane Goodall, a British researcher, arrived in 1960 to study the wild chimpanzees, and went on to devote her life to recording chimpanzee ethology in a 37-year study. Fifi, the last surviving member of the original community, is still seen regularly by visitors. Guided walks are available to take visitors into the forest to observe the many members of the monkey family.

Lake Manyara National Park (Northern Tanzania)

The highlights of Lake Manyara Park are its tree-climbing lions, large population of elephants, and hippos that can be observed at a much closer range than in other parks. This national park is also home to the largest concentration of baboons in the world. Other wildlife includes herds of buffaloes, giraffes, rhinos, impalas, zebras, leopards, bushbucks, reedbucks, waterbucks and blue and vervet monkeys. Manyara is also noted for its birdlife, particularly the flamingos.

Mikumi National Park (Southern Tanzania)

This park, 1,300 sq km (500 sq miles) in area, borders the Selous Game Reserve. It offers vistors the opportunity to see lions, leopards, cheetahs, hippos, zebras, giraffes, impalas, wildebeests and warthogs. Several observation towers in the park allow visitors to view the entire park. A popular spot for visitors is the Kikaboga Hippo Pool. Although there are animals throughout the year, the ideal time for viewing at Mikumi is December to March.

Ruaha National Park (Southern Tanzania)

Ruaha National Park is Tanzania's second-largest park and, located 118 km (73 miles) from Iringa in the Southern Highlands, it is also the least accessible. As a result of the remoteness, the landscape remains untouched and offers views of unparalleled scenery along the Ruaha Gorge. It is home to the world's largest elephant sanctuary, and other animals such as buffalo and gazelle may also be seen. The best time to visit is from July to November.

Saadani National Park (Coastal Region)

The newest national park in Tanzania, Saadani is also the only national park in East Africa with some Indian Ocean beachfront. The beach area attracts many animals, especially in the early morning. There is a green turtle breeding beach to the north, and a local lodge has started its own turtle hatchery.

Plenty of other wildlife can be seen, including buffalo, giraffe, warthog, common waterbuck, wildebeest, reedbuck, hartebeest, eland, red duiker, greater kudu, sable antelope, yellow baboon and vervet monkey. Herds of 30 or more elephants have been seen along with prides of lions.

The Wami River is home to an extensive variety of bird life, such as fish eagles, kingfishers, hammerkops, lesser flamingos and a vast range of other bush, river and sea birds.

Selous Game Reserve (Southern Tanzania)

The Selous Game Reserve covers an area larger than Switzerland (about 5% of Tanzania's land surface), making it one of the biggest in the world. It was named after Captain Frederick Selous, a British conservationist, explorer and hunter who wrote a book about his travels and the region.

Travelers are limited to the area north of the Rufiji River, which has large open grassland, woodlands, rivers, hills and plains. A broad range of wildlife can be found in the park, including a massive elephant population, a high concentration of stalking lions, along with rhinos, hippos, leopard, buffalo, giraffe, antelope, warthog, wildebeest and cheetah. The diversity of bird life includes over 350 recorded species. The Game Reserve is inaccessible during the rainy season (from March to May) owing to floods, and is best seen from July to October.

Tarangire National Park (Northern Tanzania)

One of the most noticeable highlights of this is the baobab trees that dot the grassy landscape. The best time to visit is the dry season (July to September) when wildebeest, zebra, buffalo, impala, gazelle, hartebeest and eland crowd the lagoons. The park is also excellent for bird watching, with more than 300 species recorded in the park, including kites, falcons, buzzards, vultures, eagles, storks and herons.