Must See

Budapest

Budapest is Hungary's atmospheric capital city set on the banks of the River Danube. The present city formally came into being in 1872, with the amalgamation of Old Buda (Óbuda), strategically placed on a hill, and Pest, a densely inhabited and rapidly developing township on the other side of the Danube.

Graceful Buda is characterised by cobbled streets and fine old buildings on steep Gellert Hill, while buzzing Pest is the lively modern centre on the opposite bank of the river, with bars, cafes and businesses.

Probably the most striking feature of Budapest is the panoramic 235-metre high Gellért Hill; the west side consists of terraces, whilst the east side falls steeply down to the Danube. The hill contains a geological fault from which several medicinal springs emerge that supplies the Rudas Baths (built in 1550), the Art Nouveau Gellért Baths and Rác Baths.

Up on Castle Hill, the Fishermen's Bastion (built between 1895 and 1902) offers a magnificent view over the city and the Danube. The 14th - 18th century Buda Castle stands on the southern tip of Castle Hill. Unfortunately, the lavishly decorated interiors of the palace were destroyed during the Second World War, and the Palatinal Crypt (under the former palace chapel) is now the only surviving room of the whole Royal Castle, which still contains works of art, frescoes, statues and ornate stone sarcophagi. The Historical Museum of Budapest can also be found in Buda Castle, which presents the history of Budapest from its beginnings until the end of the Communist era.

Other highlights include:

• the Hungarian National Museum, which is housed in a large classical building surrounding two courtyards and contains treasures from the Stone Age to the 20th century;
• the museum of Fine Arts, which has an extensive collection of Italian, English, German, Flemish, Spanish and Dutch paintings by Old Masters such as Raphael, Gainsborough, Holbein, Rubens, El Greco and Rembrandt;
• Margaret Island, in the middle of the Danube, where thermal springs feed the many medicinal and swimming baths. The island is mostly covered by carefully tended park areas, and is a popular recreational area for tourists as well as locals;
• the gothic Matthias Church (Church of Our Lady), which also houses the Ecclesiastical Art museum, containing a number of sacred relics and medieval stone carvings, along with replicas of the Hungarian royal crown and coronation jewels.

Giant Communist statues, which once lined the city's streets, now stand in the fascinating Statue Park, a scrub of land 30 minutes out of town by car. Figures include Lenin, Marx, Engels, as well as workers.

The Danube Bend

The Danube Bend is one of the most popular excursion and recreational spots around Budapest. The name is applied to the picturesque section of the river that lies between Esztergom and Szentendre, where it winds its way past charming towns through the Visegrád Mountains and then turns sharply south towards Budapest.

The main tourist centres are the beautiful towns of Esztergom (see below), Visegrád, Vác and the historic market town of Szentendre, which is popular with artists. An excursion to see the reconstructed folk villages at the open air museum about 3 km northwest of Szentendre is also highly recommended.

Walkers will be attracted to the region lying behind the Danube Bend, in the Visegrád Hills and the Pilis Mountains to the south, along with the quieter Börzsöny Mountains or the Cserhát mountain region to the north and east of the river.

Eger

Eger, lying on the southern slopes of the Bükk Mountains is one of the country's oldest and most colourful cities, which boasts around 200 historical monuments, including its cathedral, 14-sided minaret, Minorite Church and Turkish baths. One of the most beautiful Baroque towns in the whole of the country, Eger is towered over by its castle, which is home to a museum showing the castle's history, along with exhibitions of weapons and paintings.

Esztergom

One of the oldest towns in Hungary, Esztergom lies about 60 km (37 miles) northwest of Budapest, on the terraces of the right bank of the Danube. This former capital was the old residence of the Hungarian Princes and Kings, and has become an important tourist centre thanks to its many historical buildings. Highlights of the town include:

• the monumental cathedral (118 m long and 48m wide, making it Hungary's largest basilica);
• the ruin of the Hungarian Royal Palace, discovered in the 1930s;
• the Balint Balassi Museum, which houses an interesting collection of material illustrating the history of the town, including finds dating from the Middle Ages and the Turkish era; and
• the Christian Museum (formerly the Palace of the Primate of Hungary), which now houses one of the country's finest art collections.

Fertod

Fertod, in the northwest corner of Hungary, is the location of the baroque palace known as Esterhaza, built in the 1760's by Prince Nikolaus Esterhazy and designed to rival Versailles. The palace has 126 rooms, including the Banquet Room with its beautifully painted ceiling. Within the grounds are the so-called grenadier houses, accommodation for the guards and the musicians' house, where the court musicians lived, as did Joseph Haydn from 1766 to 1790.

The Great Plains

Comprising half of the country, the plains are vast areas of vine-yards, orchards and farmland. To the east are the Asian steppes.

Lake Balaton

Known as the 'Hungarian Sea', Balaton is the largest freshwater lake in central Europe and a popular holiday spot. It's fringed by sandy beaches and has shallow waters, making it ideal for swimming. The nearby countryside is dotted with pretty villages and towns, such as Veszprem, with its castle and cobbled streets, and Tihany, with its Benedictine Abbey and open-air museum of old peasants' cottages.

Pecs

The fifth largest and oldest city of Hungary, Pecs is located in the south-west of the country. Located 200 kilometres (125 miles) south of Budapest, it is a comfortable three-hour train ride from Hungary's capital. The city is home to some of the finest Hungarian examples of Ottoman architecture from Turkish occupancy (1543-1686); in particular, the Mosque of Yakovali Hassan Pasha with its twelve-sided 23 m (75 ft) high minaret, and the Central Parish Church of St Mary, which was formerly the city's chief mosque (the Mosque of Gazi Kasim Pasha).

The bustling centre of Pécs is the medieval market place (Szenchenyi ter), whose sloping situation and irregular shape make it particularly interesting and attractive to visitors. The oldest house in the town is the provost's house, which was mentioned in the town records in 1324. It is likely that the vaulted entrance and the first-floor window, both with Gothic niche-seats, date from that time. The Zsolnay Collection and a selection of works by the sculptor Amerigo Tot are displayed in its beautiful rooms.

In the northwest corner of the once fortified Old Town lies the cathedral precincts, from where visitors may climb up to the Cathedral of St Peter, along pathways set amongst beautiful trees.

Sárospatak

This charming historical town in northern Hungary is famous for the impressive Rakoczi Castle, which lies south of the town centre. The Renaissance chateaux and fortress was built in the 16th century and today houses a cultural centre and an interesting historical museum showcasing aristocratic life between 1500 and 1800.

Sopron

Situated just 8 km (5 miles) from the Austrian border, 65 km (40 miles) south of Vienna, Sopron is a popular tourist destination, not only because of its attractive situation but also because of its unusual townscape. The town is home to an impressive collection of well preserved medieval and Baroque buildings - there are 115 officially listed monuments and 240 protected buildings.

A particular highlight is the Fabricius House, which is hidden a complex of houses from the 14th and 15th century, built on Roman foundations. In fact, part of the town wall is incorporated into the building. The Gothic cellar houses a Roman lapidarium, whilst the upper floor includes displays from Illyrian, Celtic and Roman culture together with exhibits from the period of the Magyar conquest.

Other 'must sees' include:

• the Franz Liszt Museum (he was born near here)
• the Fire Tower, with its Roman foundations, 14th century base, Renaissance central section, and 17th century dome
• the Gothic Goat Church
• the 15th century Storno House, with its impressive collection of old porcelain, paintings, traditional wood carving, furniture, guild shops and ceramics.

Szombathely

Said to be the oldest town in Hungary, Szombathely lies 50 km (31miles) south of Sopron on the eastern edge of the Alps. The town is home to the 18th century cathedral, which stands on the site of the Roman forum of Savaria; and the Savaria Museum, which has an outstanding collection of Roman antiquities, including statues, mosaics, ornaments from the church in Ják and exhibitions of natural history and archaeology of the Szombathely region.

Activities

Baths

Budapest is perhaps best known for its numerous and characterful thermal baths, with over 100 thermal springs in the city. These include the Gellert Baths, housed in a historic hotel on the Buda side and the Szechenyi Baths, a large yellow complex in City Park, with an open-air pool and large communal saunas frequented by old men playing chess. Debrecen, Heviz, Harkany and Eger are also spa resorts.

Beaches

Lake Balaton is home to many beaches (strands); Siofok, on the south shore of the lake, has some of the sandiest beaches and best facilities for tourists. The water in the lake tends to be warm and shallow.

Caves

Those wanting to explore some caves should head to the Aggtelek National Park, which forms part of the Gömör Torna Karst area of cave systems that extends into the Slovak Republic.

Fishing

The River Tisza is widely regarded as one of Europe's premier angling spots, where species such as trout, carp, pike, bream and tench are abundant. Guides can be hired if required.

Hiking and Walking

The Pilis, Borzsony and Matra ranges north of Budapest are popular for hiking, with the latter home to Hungary's highest peak, Kekesteto, standing at 1,015 metres (3,329 ft). For less strenuous walks, head to the southern hills and Lake Balaton.

Horse Riding

The Great Plain is home to several famous stud farms and stages regular horse shows. Visitors may also take lessons or go on an excursion with riding schools all over the country.

Wildlife

Hungary is a good place to enjoy some bird spotting; for example in Hortobagy National Park, where different types of warblers, storks, herons and eagles can be seen. However, a guide is needed for visits to some parts of the park, and cars are not permitted.

The Ferto-Hansag National Park is home to the Hansag, an area of wetlands, and Lake Ferto, the westernmost steppe lake in Eurasia. The park also has a permanent wildlife and ethnographic museum at Ontesmajor.

The Kiskunság National Park was set up to preserve parts of the Danube Tisza Floodplain of Central Hungary in seven disconnected areas. Walking along the tourist trails in this biosphere reserve, visitors can learn about migratory birds, swamps, lakes and alkali plateaux.

Wine Tasting

Tokaj is home to one of Hungary's wine treasures, a sweet wine perfumed with smoke, toffee and honey. Due west, wine lovers will find the vineyards of the Szépasszony Valley, where they can sample the famous Bikavér (Bull's Blood) wine. More information about Hunagrian wine may be found in the extensive Wine Resource Centre.